They did it in a way where they didn't have the points or sawtooth design of regular stringers.Īnybody out there have any ideas of how they did that? I have not quite figured out how the installation guys cut the rough stringers. But the 1 1/2" goes back on when the 2 X top tread goes on. This effectively drops the stringers at the top where they attach to a joist or header. So you would have to cut 1 1/2" off the bottom of all the stringers in that case. This would be a code violation in most areas, if the building inspector catches it. If I put a 2 X tread on the bottom step, the bottom step is now 8 1/2" above the floor. Say if I had calculated that the unit rise was 7". The catch with using the rough stringers is that they may or may not have been cut to allow for the thickness of the first tread. The bullnose of the tread, the thickness of the riser, 3/4", and the 10" tread cut on the stringer gave us enough space to put a piece of scotia where the two met at the top. The rough stringers were always cut out with a 10" tread. All of our treads came to us, and some we made, were all 11 1/4" wide. Then face them out with oak treads and/or oak or poplar risers. I would recommend taking it down to the rough stringers. And I don't think you'll find much out before first ripping up the carpet to see what you have underneath. Awful long response for not much answer, but your first step is to thoroughly investigate what you have. You may be able to find something through someplace like Old House Journal, or google and see what you get. ![]() ![]() ![]() You could find books on Amazon or Taunton, but I suspect they mostly deal with new stairs. If it's an older house, you may be able to clean up and finish the existing parts. If you don't have housed stringers, that actually might be easier, but again, I don't know what's there. Ripping out the plywood treads is another possibility, but that is easily more complicated and dispruptive (unless the stairs aren't used much). However, this may compromise the rise at the top and/or bottom of the stairs, and could potentially violate code if the discrepancy is big enough. If the treads and risers are plywood, the easiest thing to do would be to veneer (or overlay) tread material onto what's there. If you can look from below that will tell you as well. Since no one has offered an opinion, I'll give it a go, but first I'll say you might have better luck over with the Breaktime crew.ĭo you know whether the current treads and risers are plywood or solid wood? You don't give the age of the house, but that may allow you a guess.
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